[chirp_users] Suddenly, cannot connect to GT-3TP from latest CHIRP or previous versions
For months, I've been successfully cloning GT-3TPs for our own use and UV5Rs for friends. Suddenly, last week, I can't connect to any radios via CHIRP. I've installed the most recent CHIRP versions. Today it's chirp -daily-20210520-installer.exe
I have two known good cloning cables that worked previously. Same results. I'm using BF-F8HP type as always. I've tried two different COM ports, CHIRP sees both.
The first time I tried this morning, Upload to Radio keyed the trx on the HT, solid carrier until I turned the HT off. That's a clue to me that something odd is up.
My next step is to install CHIRP on a different W10 laptop and try there. Anybody BTDT?
Reno in Texas Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 11:25 AM Ceferino Lamb ceferino.lamb@gmail.com wrote:
For months, I've been successfully cloning GT-3TPs for our own use and UV5Rs for friends. Suddenly, last week, I can't connect to any radios via CHIRP. I've installed the most recent CHIRP versions. Today it's chirp-daily-20210520-installer.exe
This is not unusual with Windows and some programming cables with Prolific type USB-to-Serial chips. If you previously had to install and select the older Prolific v3.2.0.0 driver to get your programming cable(s) to work, Windows can and will, without notice, update to the latest driver version and sometimes even remove the working driver. When this happens your programming cable will not function until you install and select the older driver again.
I have two known good cloning cables that worked previously. Same results. I'm using BF-F8HP type as always. I've tried two different COM ports, CHIRP sees both.
With Windows, there is no need to "try" different COM ports. You should use the Windows Device Manager application to determine exactly which COM port has been assigned to the programming cable.
The first time I tried this morning, Upload to Radio keyed the trx on the HT, solid carrier until I turned the HT off. That's a clue to me that something odd is up.
Causing a radio to go into transmit is an indication that either or more of the following are true... 1 the USB end of the programming cable is not plugged into the computer 2 the USB end of the programming cable is plugged into the computer but the device driver has not been loaded yet 3 the USB end of the programming cable is plugged into the computer but the device driver that is loaded is not compatible with the chip in the programming
The #3 cause above is most often the result when the programming cable was manufactured with an unauthorized copy (counterfeit) of the Prolific PL2303HXA USB-to-serial chip. Driver versions after v3.3.2.105 are intentionally designed to be incompatible with these unauthorized chip copies. So if someone or something upgrades a Prolific driver to the latest Windows version, any programming cables with a counterfeit Prolific chip will stop functioning.
Since the majority of my 20+ programming cables that I have these unauthorized Prolific chip copies and I have been using them with Windows since getting my USB based programming cable back in 2012, I have been using the Prolific v3.2.0.0 driver with Windows 7, 8.1 and 10 (v2.0.2.1 for Windows XP) to program my radios. When Windows on its own updates the driver, my programming cable stop working until I install and select the older v3.2.0.0 driver again.
None of my programming cables with USB-to-Serial chips from other chip vendors (FTDI, Silicon Labs, WCH, etc) have this issue. So switching to a programming cable with a chip from a different chip vendor is also a solution if you want to avoid having to go through this again in the future.
My next step is to install CHIRP on a different W10 laptop and try there. Anybody BTDT?
No programming cable can work without a complete and working connection between the radio and computer. It is the CHIRP user that must insure that this connection is complete and working.
Reno in Texas Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
Jim KC9HI
We are locked on W10 1903, having blocked automatic updates in the Registry. Do you suspect that drivers will be updated nevertheless?
By Jove, you are correct Sir. I just checked. Although my OS was last updated in 2/20, drivers were updated recently this month, including Prolific Ports and FTDI Ports.
Do you have information as to how I can roll back the affected drivers? My Bezos cables may indeed have copied chips. I tried 5 different cables, including the ones forum denizens said always worked. Only 2 worked, and both are el cheapo cables.
To the other chap, the chronology was (works > fails > update CHIRP > still fails). So as you see the failure came under the previously working version of CHIRP.
On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 12:15 PM Jim Unroe rock.unroe@gmail.com wrote:
On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 11:25 AM Ceferino Lamb ceferino.lamb@gmail.com wrote:
For months, I've been successfully cloning GT-3TPs for our own use and
UV5Rs for friends.
Suddenly, last week, I can't connect to any radios via CHIRP. I've
installed the most recent CHIRP versions. Today it's chirp-daily-20210520-installer.exe
This is not unusual with Windows and some programming cables with Prolific type USB-to-Serial chips. If you previously had to install and select the older Prolific v3.2.0.0 driver to get your programming cable(s) to work, Windows can and will, without notice, update to the latest driver version and sometimes even remove the working driver. When this happens your programming cable will not function until you install and select the older driver again.
I have two known good cloning cables that worked previously. Same
results. I'm using BF-F8HP type as always. I've tried two different COM ports, CHIRP sees both.
With Windows, there is no need to "try" different COM ports. You should use the Windows Device Manager application to determine exactly which COM port has been assigned to the programming cable.
The first time I tried this morning, Upload to Radio keyed the trx on
the HT, solid carrier until I turned the HT off. That's a clue to me that something odd is up.
Causing a radio to go into transmit is an indication that either or more of the following are true... 1 the USB end of the programming cable is not plugged into the computer 2 the USB end of the programming cable is plugged into the computer but the device driver has not been loaded yet 3 the USB end of the programming cable is plugged into the computer but the device driver that is loaded is not compatible with the chip in the programming
The #3 cause above is most often the result when the programming cable was manufactured with an unauthorized copy (counterfeit) of the Prolific PL2303HXA USB-to-serial chip. Driver versions after v3.3.2.105 are intentionally designed to be incompatible with these unauthorized chip copies. So if someone or something upgrades a Prolific driver to the latest Windows version, any programming cables with a counterfeit Prolific chip will stop functioning.
Since the majority of my 20+ programming cables that I have these unauthorized Prolific chip copies and I have been using them with Windows since getting my USB based programming cable back in 2012, I have been using the Prolific v3.2.0.0 driver with Windows 7, 8.1 and 10 (v2.0.2.1 for Windows XP) to program my radios. When Windows on its own updates the driver, my programming cable stop working until I install and select the older v3.2.0.0 driver again.
None of my programming cables with USB-to-Serial chips from other chip vendors (FTDI, Silicon Labs, WCH, etc) have this issue. So switching to a programming cable with a chip from a different chip vendor is also a solution if you want to avoid having to go through this again in the future.
My next step is to install CHIRP on a different W10 laptop and try
there. Anybody BTDT?
No programming cable can work without a complete and working connection between the radio and computer. It is the CHIRP user that must insure that this connection is complete and working.
Reno in Texas Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
Jim KC9HI _______________________________________________ chirp_users mailing list chirp_users@intrepid.danplanet.com http://intrepid.danplanet.com/mailman/listinfo/chirp_users This message was sent to Reno Lamb at ceferino.lamb@gmail.com To unsubscribe, send an email to chirp_users-unsubscribe@intrepid.danplanet.com
On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 4:01 PM Ceferino Lamb ceferino.lamb@gmail.com wrote:
We are locked on W10 1903, having blocked automatic updates in the Registry. Do you suspect that drivers will be updated nevertheless?
By Jove, you are correct Sir. I just checked. Although my OS was last updated in 2/20, drivers were updated recently this month, including Prolific Ports and FTDI Ports.
Do you have information as to how I can roll back the affected drivers? My Bezos cables may indeed have copied chips. I tried 5 different cables, including the ones forum denizens said always worked. Only 2 worked, and both are el cheapo cables.
To the other chap, the chronology was (works > fails > update CHIRP > still fails). So as you see the failure came under the previously working version of CHIRP.
The miklor.com website has a link for the needed device driver and instructions for installing and selecting it.
https://www.miklor.com/COM/UV_Drivers.php
Jim KC9HI
That did the trick and I thank you Sir.
The miklor.com website has a link for the needed device driver and instructions for installing and selecting it.
It seems a recurring theme that Windows 10 users suddenly find that CHIRP fails to connect after Windows 10 automatically 'upgrade' a driver/drivers.
You can block such an upgrade individually, for instructions on several ways this can be achieved see https://windowsreport.com/block-windows-10-driver-update/
HTH
P. 5b8ba
participants (3)
-
Ceferino Lamb -
Jim Unroe -
Peter Mooney